November 17, 2021

 

Letaba, 1030

 

I awoke yesterday to gray skies and the sound of rainfall. Except the gray skies were smoky from a controlled burn somewhere and the sound of rain was really some broken plumbing up the hill from my bungalow. But the wind changed direction and the sky cleared and we had a cool morning with beautiful light. I spent some, hopefully productive, time at a pretty low water crossing just south of Olifants. There was a very obliging black stork present and then some helmeted guinea fowl drank right next to the car, giving me the opportunity to play with light and texture and reflection. I don’t know what comes of it yet, but at least a prayer of something interesting.

 

I’d been increasingly demoralized by my photography. Subjects have been limited (and just where are the leopards?), I’ve been slow (a lot of the art of wildlife photography depends on being able to very quickly set up a shot) and I’ve struggled with the autofocus with this camera/lens combination. So, like a baseball manager who doesn’t know what else to do, I’ve just started radically changing some of the set-ups on my camera, especially as it relates to autofocus modes. I don’t know if it will help, but I must try something.

 

Short drive in the morning, pack up, last breakfast at Olifants and head north. Can’t check in at Letaba until 1500 or so, so just headed north on the paved road. Once the sun came out, it got hot very quickly. Very hot, hitting 43 C by early afternoon. I took a slow drive up to Mopani camp, windows up, A/C on. It’s very dry north of Letaba. Mopanes are beginning to leaf, but mostly it’s a desolate landscape now, reminiscent of photos of blasted WWI battlefields.

 

A lot of hot, dispirited animals trying to work their way to water sources only to be driven away by elephants who feel other animals mess up the water and who don’t like to share generally.  

 

Back to Letaba camp, checked in, filled up the vehicle (gasoline is very expensive here - I blame Obama!) and made appointment to get car washed today with Eric. I have mixed feelings about washing the vehicle when I know that I have another week-and-a-half here. I wonder, why bother? You know, it’s like taking a shower here. In an hour, you’ll feel exactly the same. But it’s so bad, I just have to.

 

Took an evening drive along the S47. I know I’ve driven every road around here over the past years, but I somehow didn’t remember how strikingly beautiful that road is. Winding unpaved lane through dense woodlands, along the Letaba River. Many elevation changes. Giant trees along the banks of the riverbed. I didn’t have a lot of time before the gate closed but I made a mental note to come back and that I was going to find a leopard here in this perfect leopard habitat. 

 

The area was jam-packed with elephants, and I had mis-judged time, so I had to pick it up and make some time to get back before gate closing. I was like a video game in the gloaming darkness, driving fast, but not recklessly, on these gravel roads, knowing that a flat tire resulting from hitting a rock would be a big problem and having to constantly be on the lookout for elephants wandering into the road. Somehow made it to the paved road, took a breath and beat the gate by 10 minutes. Who knew wildlife photography was so stressful.

 

This morning, out the gate by about 0515 to take the S47 in the opposite direction. Drove very slowly, enjoying the views that I had sped by the previous evening and looking hard for leopards. I know that there was a leopard there. I’m 100% certain that there was a leopard and that I just didn’t see it. Driving in the bush, one undoubtedly misses 19 leopards for every one that’s seen. And the ones that are seen are of the “don’t give a shit” school of leopardry. If a leopard doesn’t want to be seen, I promise, you won’t see it. So, I just enjoyed the drive. Shot a few birds and spent time thinking about life and lunch and wine.

 

In about 4 hours on the S47, I saw 3 other vehicles. It’s amazing.  What’s more amazing is that I didn’t see a single elephant on the road. The only elephant I saw was a single-family line marching east in the riverbed below, faces into the beautiful morning light. How is it that the place was packed with elephants 13 hours before and now they are all gone? Elephants apparently have their own calendars, managed by their matriarchs, which involves moving around for food, water, and meet ups with aunts, cousins, and other members of extended family.

 

And now on to see Eric at the car wash!