November 27, 2021

 

Olifants Camp, 0800

 

And now everything’s changed.

 

Yesterday afternoon, a friend sent a link to a news story about new COVID variant out of SA and that the European Community, and other countries, immediately imposed travel restrictions. Many friends contacted me shortly after with similar news. Some advised that I get out of SA as quickly as possible before travel restrictions were imposed by the US. I contacted Delta and, at that time, they had no information.

 

This morning, there is news that the US has imposed travel restrictions.  What I’m getting from these reliable news sources is, a) restrictions go into place on Monday, b) they apply to non-US residents.

 

Here’s where I am right now. It’s Saturday morning. If I drop everything and try and change things up, it’s likely that the best I could do would be to arrange to leave Sunday. I’m a long way from the airport here and there are a lot of moving parts. I’m booked to leave Monday. Leaving Sunday gets me out before travel restrictions but, again, it seems restrictions don’t apply to US residents. So, for now, I’m in wait and see mode. Things could change if, a) Delta starts canceling flights, b) quarantine restrictions are announced requiring quarantining at point of entry into the US (Atlanta), or c) if internal travel restrictions are announced for South Africa.

 

I have made one change in that I’ve changed my booking for tonight from Olifants to Orpen, which puts me about two-and-a-half hours closer to the airport in Hoespruit. And that means I lose this beautiful river view over the Olifants.

 

The whole thing is heartbreaking. The impact on me is trivial and if I must leave a day early, or even if I have to quarantine somewhere, it’s not a big deal. I’ve been here four weeks and don’t have to go to work next week.  But the impact on the people here - the impact on tourism and conservation - is almost too much to bear. I think they’ve just begun to feel that they were turning the corner. I’m so sad. And the camp here is almost empty as all those European travelers who braved the trip here are now scurrying home. I think of the five English birdwatching ladies. And the ten French teenage girls….

 

It’s so unfair. From the very beginning of the pandemic, South Africa has taken this thing more seriously than the US. Still today, screening at any public building in the Park is routine and everyone wears a mask in any public setting. Much better compliance than in Oregon or Arizona. None of this claiming that it’s their right not to comply bullshit. They just do it. I’m heartbroken for the people of South Africa.

 

So now, I quickly pack and then will schlepp my stuff up the steps to my car and head out. I think I’ll take a long drive to Orpen. There’s a beautiful little secluded spot along a riverbank south of the Orpen-Satara road that’s one of my favorite spots here. I haven’t been there yet on this trip and don’t remember exactly where it is. Maybe I look for that this afternoon. This is such a beautiful place and it’s just so sad.